On the banks of the Wang Chhu, near the picture-perfect Kundeyling Bazaam footbridge, stallholders weigh out shiny purple onions and bags of vivid green beans. Kira-clad housewives pick through fresh and dried chilies, buying them by the kilo. Farmers sell tropical crops and temperate produce alike here in Thimphu’s Centenary Farmers Market, with earth-dusted potatoes, pale green asparagus stems and locally-grown mushrooms heaped alongside piles of imported limes, mangoes and jackfruit. Towards the southern end of the modern market complex is the grains section, with sacks of Bhutan’s pale red rice, sweet roasted rice and ground barley tsampa. It’s best to visit in mid-morning, when the market action is at its liveliest.